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2003-07-05 コッツウォルズ地方にドライブ

_ やはり早起き

予測と1時間ずれたが,4時起床.5時過ぎから普通に夜が明けていてもうすっかり明るい.青空が見えていて天気はそう悪くない.昨日の日記を書き終えてから早速朝の散歩に出かけた.とりあえず目指すのは大学の中でもっとも古い建物らしい Founder's Hall である.昨日チェックインをしたReceptionの脇から森の中を小道が続いているのだが,とにかく鬱蒼としているのでどこに目的の建物があるかはよく分からない.しかしところどころ小川の流れる薄暗い小道を歩いていくと,森の向こうにそれがようやく見えてきた.庭を四角く取り囲んだ形式の建物で,日本的な観念からすればとても大学とは思えないような立派な建物である.しかしきっとこれがUKでは「大学」なのだろうと思う.

森の中を散策していると,リスやウサギがたくさんいることに気がつく.人にはまったく出会わないのにこいつらには何匹も遭遇した.

_ ドライブに出発

今朝と明朝の分は朝食がサービスされないので,そのままドライブに出発.ダイニングルームを覗いてきたWさんによれば,われわれがきっと明後日には食べるであろう朝食は「ファミレスによくある「ミックスグリル」のような代物を2倍くらいに増量したようなものがお皿にどっちゃり載っている」類のものだったそうである.「朝からあいつらようあんなもん食えるわ〜」と見ただけで油負けしておなかいっぱいになっているWさんの話を聞くと,やや将来が危ぶまれるが仕方がない.

今日はWさんとあにと3人で,Eghamから北西へ,シェイクスピアの生家があるストラットフォード・アポン・エイボンから,イギリスの典型的な田舎村の集合体であるというコッツウォルズ地方のいくつかの村を巡る予定である.まず最寄りの高速M25でしばらく北に行き,その後M40で西(やや北方向)に向かう.

_ イギリスの高速道路

欧州の他の高速道路では多くがそうであるように(イタリアは違うが)フリーウェイである.そのため料金所のある「インター」はないので,他より広い(3車線とかの)道は制限速度が違う,といったくらいの運用のされ方となる.道路そのもののイメージはイタリアとよく似ていて,高架の部分はほとんどなく,ヒツジや牛がのんびりと草をはむ,のんびりとした丘陵の風景を同じ目線で楽しむことができる.今日は土曜日だからか,行楽に向かうらしい家族連れの車で結構交通量は多いようだ.特に目立つのが,車の後ろにキャンピングカーのようなものや,あるいはもう少し小さなコンテナをつないで走っている車が多いこと.日本で流行っているレクレーショナル・ビークル,つまりは1ボックスのワゴン車のようなのがほとんどいないかわりに,ごく普通の乗用車がさまざまなお荷物をひきずって走っている.中にはいかにも手作りっぽい小さな木箱をひきずっているものがあったり,あるいはバイクを載せたものもあったりと,その内容はバラエティに富んでいる.

また,標識はごく少なめで,サービスエリアが少ないのも特徴かもしれない.M40という路線はサービスエリアが特に少ないようで,お腹を空かせてそれだけをずっと待ち望んでいた私たちにはちょっと悲しい状況だった.およそ40マイルほども走ってオックスフォードまでたどり着いたところでようやく待望のサービスエリアがあらわれた.これもまたイタリアのアウトグリル風の建物で,天井が高く,売店とレストランが一体化した広々と小ぎれいな施設である.やっぱり朝から「揚げ物系」をぱくつくイギリス人たちを後目に,大人しくクロワッサンや菓子パン,サンドイッチを頬張る私たち.私が食べたのは,卵サンドイッチ,コーンフレークにヨーグルト.とりあえず,特に不味くはない.

_ テーマパーク

さらに北西に車を走らせて30分ほどで高速を降りると,ここからは一般道をどんどん南下して目的地を巡ることになる.まずはご母君に「イギリスに行ったらここに行かなければおかしい」とまで言わしめた(とはいえ彼女は当地はおろかイギリスに行ったこともないわけだが)ストラットフォード・アポン・エイボンに到着.土曜日だからだろうが,やたらと車で混雑している.街をうろうろと一周してからエイボン川沿いの駐車場に車を止めて街歩きに出発した.

ここは偉大なる文豪ということになっているシェイクスピアとその妻の出身地で,今ではそれに因んだ大きな劇場や,あるいは生家が博物館となって観光客を集めている.昔風のかわいらしい色遣いの家々が立ち並ぶ目抜き通りを歩くと,わさわさと観光客が行き交っている.日本人はごく少なく,というか,ほとんど見かけない.どちらかというとアジア系は中国人が多いようである(地元の人か観光客かはよく分からない).シェイクスピアの作品や演劇鑑賞に関心のある人はしばらく滞在して,生家をじっくり見たり,劇場で上演されている作品を見るなどして楽しいのかもしれない.

しかし,私たちにしてみれば「ハウステンボスみたいなもん?」という印象しかない.実に実に観光地化されていて,目抜き通りの店もいわゆる「有名店」が多く,そこにある必然性はよく分からないのである.シェイクスピアの生家も入場料が£9もかかると知って「やめときましょ」と衆議一決.昨日のWさんの台詞ではないが「シェイクスピアが今おるっちゅーなら見たいけどな」である.エイボン側の河畔の庭園はのんびりときれいな雰囲気だったので,泊まりがけで来ればちょっとはその面白さを感じ取れる…のかもしれないが,今回の結論としては,

別に「行かなきゃいかん」ようなところでもないな

というものであった.シェイクスピアといえば春に行ったヴェローナもそう面白いところでもなかったな,と思いつつ.ま,ご母君さま次のご旅行の参考になさってくださいませ.

お昼時になったのでマクドナルドでさっさとランチ(Happy Meal が£1.99,ほぼ日本の「ハッピーセット」と同じ値段である.ちゃんとおもちゃもついてきたよ)を済ませて次の目的地へ.

_ チッピング・カムデン

さらに南下してしばらく行くとコッツウォルズ地方に入り,まずは「蜂蜜色の村」チッピング・カムデンに到着する.コッツウォルズの村々は,公共交通機関によるアプローチが非常に困難なので,来るならツアーバスかレンタカーということになるようだ.先ほどのストラットフォード・アポン・エイボンとは違って,街の中にずらりと路駐の車はあるものの,人通りはごく少なく,蜂蜜色の石づくりの建物が通りに面してずらりと静かに立ち並んでいる.ここら辺一体は1700年代から羊毛産業で栄えたところで,Market Hall など当時の施設がそのまま残されていた.こういうところは,特にあてどもなくぽくぽくと散歩するのが心地よい.街の外れにあるSt. James教会は,実にはかばかしく墓標が立ち並んでいて,墓好きな私はいちいち見て歩くが,なんとかようやく文字が読みとれるのはせいぜい1800年代以降のものである.当地は土葬だろうから墓標の間を歩くといちいち死体を踏んづけて歩いているような気がしてなんとなく薄ら寒い.しかし墓標を見る限りみな長寿で,70代後半以降で亡くなっている人がほとんど.たぶん,小さいときに死ぬか,そうでなければ長寿だったということなのだろう.ここは「八つの鐘」が有名らしく,ちょうど14時頃に教会周辺にいたら,めったやたらにいろんなメロディで鐘がガンガンと鳴り響いた.メロディアスというよりはやや悪趣味な気がしたのは私だけだろうか.

_ ボートン・オン・ザ・ウォーター

次にコッツウォルズの「リトル・ベニス」と呼ばれるボートン・オン・ザ・ウォーターに向かう.テムズ川やエイボン川などゆったりした川沿いに街が発達したこの地方には,こういった水辺の街も結構たくさんあるらしい.快適な直線道路をどんどん走るが,風景はまるで北海道.ここら辺は,だだっ広い丘陵地帯に,ちょっぴりとした集落が点在(しかもその点は非常に稀にしかない)している.たまに見かけるのは馬に乗った人.観光馬車の類ではなく,どうやら通常の交通手段として馬を使っているようだ.日本で馬で移動している人といえば暴れん坊将軍松平健と「スクール・ウォーズ」の伊藤かずえくらいだろうが,UKの田舎ではまだまだ立派な足として活躍しているということだろうか.

ボートン・オン・ザ・ウォーターは,先ほどのチッピング・カムデンよりは観光客が多かったが,やはりストラットフォード・アポン・エイボンよりは穏やかな感じ.さらさらと流れる小川はくるぶしまで浸かるくらいのごく浅い水位なので,子どもたちはじゃぶじゃぶと中に入って遊んでいた.私もかなり入りたかったが,とりあえずやめておいた.

しばらくそぞろ歩いたあと,川沿いにある「The Rose Tree」というレストランで軽くスコーンとお茶(合計で£3.35).テラス席かに座ってほっと一息である.スコーンに添えられてきたクローテッド・クリームが案外さっぱりしていて日本人好みの味がしており,とてもおいしかった.

_ 迷い道

さて夕方になったのでそろそろ帰りましょう,ということでさらに丘陵地帯を南に下がって,途中何度か迷いつつ今度はM4に入り,一路東へ.M25に突き当たったら少しだけ南下してEghamに戻ろうというつもりである.高速に入ってさえしまえば非常に単純なルート…のはずだったのだが,M25とのジャンクションで南ではなく北に行ってしまったりして最後にだいぶロスタイム(笑 イギリスの道路には信号がほとんどなく,交差点は「Round About」というロータリー形式になっているのがこの迷いを生じさせる原因らしい.イタリアもそうだったから多少私は順応が早かったかもしれないが,ドライバーはあくまでWさん専任なので,「あ,そこをそっちじゃなくて…」と思っている間にルートを間違えられてしまうとどうしようもない.

何度か迷って「マチガイの法則」はだいたいわかった.すべてのRound Aboutは時計回りで,ちょうど時計で言うと7時のあたりから進入することになるのだが,そのまま9時付近から左に抜けたり,12時付近からまっすぐ行くのは簡単なのだが,3時あたりから右に行くのが難しいようだ.その「左右」は,それまで来た道と交差している,同じ名前の付いた道路であることがほとんどなので,Round Aboutに進入した時点で「次はA**を<右>ね」と思っていても,入って次の看板を見てその「A**」があるとふらっと(逆方向の)そっちに行ってしまうのである.つまりは「右折」だと頭の中での処理が1段階増えるので誤りも多くなるというわけ.ドライブが長距離になって疲労しているとなおさらである.実にわかりやすいプロセスだ.

まあ,何度迷っても,高速を逆方向に行っても,多少ガソリン代を無駄遣いする以外はタダですからいいんですけどね(笑

で,19時半頃にRHULに帰還.また15分歩いてご飯を食べに行くのが面倒なので,私はそのまま部屋でお休み.二人はPubにでも出かけたようである.20時就寝.はやっ.

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