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7時くらいに部屋に帰り，ようやく起き出してきていたご夫君に「うさぎがいたよー」と写真を見せようとしたその瞬間，窓の外にトナカイ発見！ とても立派な角をしたオスだ．しばらく窓から観察していたが，やっぱり直に見たくなって，カメラとビデオを抱えて外に飛び出した．国立公園内で会ったトナカイは警戒心が強かったが，さすが街中まで出てくる勇気のあるトナカイはそうでもないらしく，私たちがそばをずっとくっついて歩いても悠然としたもので，なにやらもぐもぐと食べながら歩き続けた．私たちはその後になり先になりしてずっと追いかける．まるで成田空港で芸能人を追いかけるレポーターのごとくである．10分くらいくっついて歩いたところで表通りに出た．トナカイは道の真ん中でじっと立ち止まり…おしっこしてから国立公園の方へと悠然と戻っていった．
トナカイの追っかけが終了したので満足して，朝食．昨日は発見できなかったワッフルメーカーを見つけて製造にトライ．普段私はベリー系の果物は食べないことが多いのだが，やはり土地の名物は食べるべき，とソースはベリーにしてみた．その後は部屋でゆっくりとシャワーを浴びたり荷物のパッキングをしたりして過ごし，早めの昼食（残り物食料）を食べてから12時にチェックアウト．エアポートバスがすぐに来たのでわさわさと乗り込み，25分ほどで空港へ．車窓をひたすら眺めてトナカイ探し．何頭か目撃した．
空港は時ならぬ中国人の団体旅行者で占拠されていた．反日教育が徹底していると聞いて反中国意識が一時的に高まっているので，緊張のひととき．…と思ったら話している言語が何となく違う．韓国語とも違うニダ．そしてご夫君が「なんだかすごくよく知ってる言葉がたまに出てくる」という．タイの団体旅行客でした．一体どこにいたのだろうか．サーリセルカではなかったと思うので，イナリだろうか．そしてやっぱり「自由席」なので今度は早めに列に並んで前の方の２列シートをゲット．
日曜日に滞在にしてしまったのでイナリ湖に行けなかったこと．田舎は公共交通機関が少ないのでやはりレンタカーにした方がよかったように思う．イヴァロの空港にハーツその他のオフィスはあったので，さくっと借りて縦横無尽に走り回るのがベターだろう．次の機会はそうするべし．でも次の機会にはもっと北に，具体的にはノルウェーのノールカップに行きたい．
なお今回の滞在では日本人にほとんど会わなかったが，冬は日本人だらけらしい．何でもオーロラを見にツアーを組んでやってくるのは（例：日本旅行・平田氏）日本人くらいのものらしい．なぜだろう．
１時間半程度のフライトでヘルシンキに到着．24度と結構暖かい．そしてまぶしい．どうしてこう太陽が眩しいのかヨーロッパ．空港からはバスで中央駅まで40分弱だった．空港の周りには郊外型のスーパーマーケットがたくさんあった．中央駅から宿泊するホテル・カンプまで荷物を引きずって10分弱の距離だった．繁華街のど真ん中の，多分ヘルシンキ大学までも近い距離にあるところ．アサインされた部屋は8階で，今回の旅行の中では一番豪華っぽい，重厚なヨーロピアンスタイルの内装だ．洗面所も２ボウルあるし，バスとシャワーブースは別になっている．インターネットは24時間20ユーロで，ロンドンのホテルのほぼ半額．１泊は200ユーロ．やすーい！（ただしこれはSPG-JALの50％オフプロモーション価格．とはいえロンドンのインターコンチもPriority Clubのレートではある） いろんな意味で，快適，快適．
夕方はホテルの近所を散歩．歩いて3分ほどでヘルシンキ大学．大学内は食肉科学の学会をやっているらしく，ポスター会場があったり，Elsevirの学会誌見本コーナーがそのまんま放置されていたりしていたが，全体的には夏休みということでとても静か．すぐ隣が大聖堂で，白亜の美しい建物だが，中身はプロテスタントなので至極あっさり．全景をカメラにおさめていたら，隣でビデオを回していた外国人（フィンランド人でも日本人でもない）が「これは何ですか」と尋ねてきた．君，何も知らずにビデオを回していたのかね．Cathedralですよ，と教えてあげた．
そしてトラムが行き交う通りを渡るとすぐに港．シリヤラインの巨大な船が何隻も停泊している．ちょうど観光船が出航時刻だったので，これは乗るべし！とさっさとチケットを買って乗り込んだ．かなり船好きな私は，この手の観光船にはどんどん乗ってしまうのだ．１時間半でぐるりとヘルシンキ沖…というのはおかしいな，湾内をぐるっと巡るツアーである．いくつもの島が点在している湾内だが，水際にはカラフルにペイントされた別荘＋サウナのセットがある．サウナに入った人々はそのまま海にドボン…と飛び込むそうだ．それを聞いて目を輝かせたのはご夫君で，いつどのサウナからドボンと来るだろうかと目をランランと輝かせて観察．しかし，煙突から煙が出ている＝使用中のサウナがそもそも少なく，残念ながら飛び込む現場を見ることはできなかった．子供が何人か裸で水浴びしてしてはいたけどね．１時間半かけて遊覧終了．ちょっと寒かったけど楽しかった．
いかにも東京の人っぽい発想だなあと思いました．いや，改めて錯誤と言われなくても私たちには日常そのものの行為なので…
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