ホテルからはどこの何かは判然としないものの費用のかからない無線LANが拾えているので,ネット環境は大復活.
5時半起床.ようよう白くなりゆく山際,を眺めながらの贅沢な朝.今日は午後からあまり天気がよくなくなる予想だとのことで,早めの動きで周辺を堪能する予定.今日もおにぎり持って出発だ〜!
避暑地の朝は遅い.ホテルの朝食が7時半からだったのでジャストタイムに行ったらガラガラ.巨大な(どう見ても卵3つ使用)のオムレツなどをお腹に押し込んで,8時にホテルを出発.その時点でホテル玄関はまだ鍵が閉まっていた.まっすぐ歩いて10分少々の登山鉄道乗り場へ.始発が8:25,昼から今日は天気が崩れるとの予想だったので「絶対始発じゃないとダメだダメだ!」ということで急いだのである.
登山鉄道はアプト式といって,蒸気機関車が上りは最後尾,下りは先頭についている.つまり上りは車両を押し上げていくわけだ.相当な急坂を40分ほど登ってシャフベルクの頂上駅(1700メートル程度)に到着.めちゃめちゃ風が吹いていて寒い.せっかくきれいな花々が咲いているのに,強風に煽られていて写真など撮れやしない.しかし到着して15分ほどはまだ雲がほとんどなく,360度…はちょっと無理で,270度くらいのパノラマ・ビューを楽しむことができた.
しかしその後急速に雲がもくもくとわきたってきて山頂を覆い始め,風はいっそう冷たさを増すばかり.うっかり半袖で来てしまったので寒さに震える羽目になった.たまらず1時間後の下りに乗って帰ることにした.同じように考える人々は多かったようで「10:10の便なら予約はいらないから」だったのに,大入り満員だった.行き会う上り便はかなりの人たちが乗っていたが,山頂に着いてみたとて寒さに震えるだけだろう.彼らは相当不幸だが,やはり山は早朝が勝負,である.
それでも地上駅に戻ると曇りではあるもののまあ天気はなんとか大丈夫,という感じ.出口には,行きの改札でぱちりと撮られた写真が飾ってあった.うつりはそう悪くなかったので,まあ記念にもらっておくか,とEUR5で購入.
今度は車を出してさらに山奥に行ったところにあるハルシュタットへ.ハルとはケルト語で塩を意味するそうで,つまりは塩の街である.ザルツブルグにせよハルシュタットにせよ,このあたりの山は岩塩を非常に多く含んでいるそうだ.そしてすっかり世界史の知識など消し飛んでいたが,ハルシュタットは先史時代から人々が居住し,鉄器文明も栄えていたところだそうだ.
ハルシュタットの街は塩抗のある岩山と湖の境界あたりにまるでへばりつくように広がっていて,ほとんど空間というものに乏しい.当然駐車スペースも少ないので,街を少し離れたところにあるパーク&ライドに車を停めて,バスで街中に入った.まあ考えてみればこれもなかなか効率的である.まずはご母君強力リコメンドの遊覧船のチケットを買うが,出発までしばらく時間があったので,湖を眺めながらランチ.おにぎり,うまし.
13:10の船に乗って,湖遊覧に出発.天気は今にも泣きそうだがとりあえずなんとか大丈夫だった.街の対岸にある鉄道駅を経由して,湖一周ぐるっと50分程度.まるで絵のようだと形容されるハルシュタットの街だが,今日は曇天のためにものすごく素晴らしいというところまではいかなかった.また機会があれば是非晴天時を狙いたい.教会のそばの桟橋で下船して,塩やせっけんなどのお土産をちょこちょこ買いながら戻り,先史博物館やカトリック教会(カタコンベが有名らしい)はスルーして,またバスに乗って駐車場へ.
というわけで,今日は天気もいまいちだし無理して遊ぶ必要もないんじゃない,と早めに観光終了.静かな湖畔の部屋で,ゆったりとした時間を楽しむのであった.明日は雨だそうで,最高気温予想が15度くらいとか.本当にこのコントラストがヨーロッパだなあ…
と,ゆったりした時間を延々と楽しむことができないのもわれわれの悲しい性で,16時頃にホテルを出て,すぐ目の前にあるモーターボート乗り場から湖にこぎ出してみることにした.モーターボートといっても0-1-2の3段階しかない頼りないエンジンと,これまた頼りないハンドルしかない大変簡易なものだ.だから誰でも運転させてもらえる.30分8ユーロで乗り込むと,これが案外スムーズに走るもので,1時間あればザンクトギルゲンまで行って帰ってこられそうな勢いだった.われわれは湖の中ほどまでこぎ出して,ザンクトギルゲンをちら見して,ザンクトヴォルフガング側をぐるっと一周するだけだった.これで天気が良ければ素晴らしいのだろうが,残念ながら曇り空.それでも地上から見るのとは違った光景を,遊覧船に乗らずとも楽しむことができたのでよかったとしよう.
ちょっぴりお土産やを冷やかした後,18時には昨日と同じホテルレストランへ.今日はガーデンは寒そうなので屋内のテーブルにしてもらった.ご夫君はレバーダンプリング(巨大)入りのコンソメスープ+サーモンのタリアテッレ,私はガーリックのクリームスープ+ニョッキ,二人でチキン胸肉入りミックスサラダをとった.やはりここの料理は塩味がいい感じで(ただし旅行中という適度に疲労している時でなければ塩辛いと思われる)気に入った.このルールをザルツカンマーグート全体に適用していいのかどうかは知らないが.
食事を終えた頃には残念ながら雨模様.今日も来るかとブラスバンドを楽しみにしていたのだが,おそらく登場しなかったようだ.二人して21時過ぎに就寝.
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