夜中に何度も目覚めつつも「たくさん寝よう」と心がけて5時過ぎに起床．もちろんこの時間になると外は明るいが，何度か目覚めた深夜は普通に夜だった気がする．去年のフィンランド北部がきっぱりほぼ白夜だったのとは随分違うようだ．
昨日の日記を書いた後，7時頃から気になる露天風呂へ．当然こちらでは水着着用で入るわけなので，持参のものに着替えてバスローブを羽織って出かけた．山小屋風なホテルにバスローブとは随分豪華と思ったが，きっとこのために準備されたものなのだろう．朝食の準備をしている管理人の若者に「風呂，入るから」と告げて外へ．風呂は摂氏39度とパンフレットにはあったが，西欧人向けにややぬるめな感じで，少しだけ硫黄の香りがするが湯色は透明であまりくせはない．源泉かけ流しかどうかはよく分からないが，別にこだわりもないのでよしとしよう．部屋にはシャワーブースしかないので，広々と湯船に浸かることができるとさすがに日本人としてはうれしいものだ．かなりお湯がぬるく，対して外は10度少々しかないので，芯から温まるというのはちょっと無理だったが（笑
朝食は8時から，先ほど風呂に入るために通り抜けたパブリックスペースで簡単なバフェ．卵はないものの，ハムやチーズ，野菜（トマトとキュウリが定番のようだ），酢漬けの魚，何やら危険そうな香りのするクラッカーの類，コーンフレーク，パンなどが並べられている．もちろん各種ジュースとコーヒー紅茶もあるので，コンプリメンタリーの朝食としては十分だ．ホテルには10部屋近くあって満室のようなのだが，勇んですぐに食べに来る客は今日に限っては私たちだけのようで，監視役？な若者と微妙な緊張感を持ちつつ，むしゃむしゃと食べる．彼も私たちが消費したものをチェックしては皿に補充したり，かと思えばお湯を沸かしにかかったり，努めて作業を見つけてうろうろと立ち働いているさまが面白い．多分，彼も緊張していたのだろう．
その後ホテルの周辺を少しお散歩．道の向かいはもう海岸である．磯のにおいがして，すぐそばには港がある．この辺りは漁業関係の施設がいろいろとあるようで，壁面に大きな海老のイラストがあるところなどは，きっと海老の加工場なのだろう．砂浜には鳥がたくさんいた．
9時過ぎにホテルをチェックアウト．目の前に遠く眺められる島へのツアーが港から出るらしいということだったので行ってみたが，ほとんど人気なし．ロンプラをよく見ると on request のようだし，天気もいまいち曇天なので，ここはさっさと次の目的地に向かうことにした．次の目的地は，この町から150キロほど東にあるアークレイリだ．
アークレイリへの道は，ところどころ雨模様だったものの，道はきれいに舗装されているし，交通量も少なく，ほぼ順調に推移した．窓からの眺めは，農場（羊・馬・牛）だったり，ところどころに残雪（というかミニ氷河？）が残るフィヨルド地帯（野生ではないかと思われる羊が結構いる）だったりと少しずつ変わるが，基本的にはとても静かで穏やかなものだ．そばに川が流れているので，霧がかなり深いところもちらほらある．たまに動物が車道の近くにいることがあるので，私が，
うまーっ
ひつじーっ
と叫ぶとご夫君が車を停めてくれて，写真を撮ろうと試みる．しかしどいつもこいつも（特に羊は）警戒心が強く，外に出て近づくとすたこらさっさと逃げてしまうのだった（悲 立派な角のあるおとうさん羊の写真が撮りたいのに，なかなか難しい．そろそろアイスランドのFMに飽きてきたので，持参のｉPodと車載用スピーカーを出して，持参の音楽も楽しみつつ，11時半ちょっと前くらいにアークレイリに到着．これもまた深い入り江にある港町だ．ガソリンがなくなってきたので１度目の補給をしてから，市内に入った．
アークレイリは少し雨模様．アイスランド第二の都市で，一応メインストリートには観光客の姿もそれなりにある．元来建物がとてもカラフルなので，実は寂れた雰囲気なのかもしれないのに見た目には華やかで活気づいて見える．コインパーキングに車を停め（この料金は15分10Ikrと安い），レイキャビクの教会と同じ人がデザインした教会を見る．こちらもコンクリート打ちっ放しで斬新な外観だが，内装はステンドグラスを多用した，結構クラシックなものだった．少し高台にあるので，豪華客船なども停泊している港を一望することができた．
他に博物館や植物園もあるようだが，やっぱり立ち寄らず．車を停めたところにある店がたまたまロンプラに載っていて「毛糸製品のファクトリーアウトレット．だから他のどこよりも安い．That's a theory」なんて書いてあることを発見したので，これは入るしかないでしょと行ってみる．アウトレットといってもごく狭い店だが，所狭しとセーターやマフラー，それに帽子など，そして毛糸も並べてある．確かに昨日ゲイシールの土産物屋にあったものよりは安い，ような気がする．ご母君に毛糸を…とも思ったが，何を作るのに何玉くらい必要かよくわからなかったのでとりあえずやめて，自分たち用にセーターを購入した．免税の手続きもしてくれて，お土産にとポストカードも２枚くれた．
満足して車に戻り，入り江を渡った対岸の駐車スペース（アークレイリの街がよく見える）に車を停めてランチ．雨模様なので外で食べるわけにもいかないのである．今日のメニューは，炊き込みご飯のおにぎり．さて次の目的地は，Gottsfoss（Falls of God）である．
という名前の滝はどこにでもあるような気がするが，ここの由来は，昔々のとあるえらい人が「アイスランド人はこれまで信仰してきたPagosの神の信仰を続けるか，それともキリスト教に帰依するか」という大問題に対して後者を選択し，その証としてこれまでの信仰だった神の象徴をこの滝に投げ込んだ，というところにあるそうだ．ここもまたGullfossと同じく，一体どこに滝なんてあるんだろうというところに突如として大瀑布が出現する．車を走らせていると，向こうの方に地面から霧が立ち上っているところがあるなあ，と思ったらそれが滝なのである．Gullfossより少し規模は小さいのだが，滝壺のすぐそばまで歩いていくことができる．強烈な量の氷河から溶け出した水が，耳をつんざく轟音と共に滝壺に流れ落ちている．岩を伝って歩いていくのだが，ところどころ浮き石があって結構怖い．ここで足を滑らせようものなら，運が悪ければそのまま滝に引き入れられてしまうに違いない．大した高さはないのだが，足がすくむ思いをした．少し離れたところにあるレストラン付近からの眺めもとても美しかった．
次なる目的地＝今日の宿泊地は，ミヴァートン湖である．火山の噴火によってできた巨大な湖だ．神の滝からさらに30分ほど走ると湖が見え始めた．まだチェックイン時間には少し間があるので，PseudoCrater（実際は水蒸気爆発の跡）がよく眺められる散策路のある観光スポットに立ち寄ってみる．ところどころ雨が激しく降るところもあるのだが，観光スポットに来ると不思議とそれがやむ．いいタイミング，なのか，それともそういうところだから観光地になっている，のか．よくわからない．
車を降りた途端にわんわんと虫がつきまとってくる．そもそもアイスランドは火山と湖が多いだけあって虫（というか，蚊だ）が多くいるのだが，ここは特にすごいらしい．何せミヴァートン(Mvyatn)というのはアイスランド語で「蚊の湖(vatn)」という意味なのだそうだ．歩いてくる人の中には，頭にすっぽりネットをかぶっている人までいる．個人用蚊帳ということなのだろう．ただこの蚊，特に刺さないらしいので，うるさいだけで大した実害はなさそうである．
風がないところでは，ふと立ち止まると蚊ががんがんまとわりついてくるので，一生懸命頭を振りながら歩く．湖の際の方に出て行くと，風が強いのでさすがに蚊はいなかった．広い湖の向こう側には，温泉が噴出しているらしい白い煙が上がっており，ところどころにPseudoCraterがあり，噴火でできたらしい小高い山もある．印象的な眺めだった．
その後，湖の周りをぐるっと回って今日の宿泊地Reykjahlidに到着．途中は，火山が爆発して溶岩がバラバラと落ちまくってそのまんま，といった感じの，ご夫君曰く「地獄に来たみたいやな」という荒涼たる風景も広がっていた．一番最近では1700年代にものすごい規模の爆発があったらしかった．
ホテルはこの地域に２軒あり，私たちが宿泊するのはそのうち少し大きな方だ．ここも山小屋風のつくりだが，観光客が休憩したり食事を取ったりするハブとして使われているらしく，たまたま入った時間はものすごい客．大バコホテルにありがちな「大宴会場」的なフロアがあって，そこでみな食事をとっていた．そんな中「おっと，こいつらは宿泊客か」というような雰囲気でチェックインを受け付けてもらい，部屋へ．エレベータなどなさげな2階建てだったので，上階に案内されたらどうしようと思っていたが，幸いにも1Fの一番奥の部屋がアサインされた．フロントの女性が「今日の予約は１泊で，ツインルーム．セパレートのベッドね」と確認するから「その通りだ」と答えつつ「わざわざセパレートのベッドって言うかな」と思いつつ部屋に入ったら，確かにとってもセパレートだった．つまり，ベッドは横にではなく，縦に二つ並んでいたのである．スキー場の宿泊所にありがちな，細長い部屋を想像してもらえればいいだろう．確かに縦に並べた方が広く感じて，それはそれでいい．部屋からは，残念ながら湖は見えなかったが，すぐそばの教会がよく見えた．なんでも，1700年代の大爆発の時，奇跡的に被害を免れたところなのだそうだ（ただし，建物は新しく建て直されている）．
ここのホテルはフロント前にインターネットにつなげるPCが置いてあった．チェックインしたときは空いていたのに一休みして出かけると先客が．最初はメイルを書いていたので黙って待っていたら，その後延々と世界陸上の結果をチェックしていてなかなか席を動こうとしない．ここでそんなに世界陸上のことを気にしなくてもよいだろう！といらいらしつつ，20分ほど待たされた．しかし，人には文句を言うわけだが，ようやく使えるようになった私たちがやったことはメイルチェックと阪神の試合結果のチェックなのだから，世界陸上に熱を上げるおじさんと同じ穴の狢である．中日との2試合目はなんとか勝ったようでよっとする．メイルには，Nボスからの再閲読のコメントが入っていて，ちょっと仕事のことを思い出して暗くなる．でも放置．ご母君からは，井川劇場が開演する直前のタイムスタンプで「グッドニュース」というタイトル，中身は「今阪神は7-1で勝ってるよ！」というメイルが入っており，その後の彼女を襲った悲劇を考えると心から同情する気持ちになる．とりあえず日本語が入力できるわけもないので，日記に「元気です」だけ書いておいた．
さてまだ夕食には早い．そこでロンプラ曰く「ミヴァートンにもブルーラグーンあり．有名なそれと違って，なんてったって泳ぐのはタダ」と書いてあった巨大露天風呂に出かけることにした．さっき見た，白い煙がもうもうと上がっている地帯だ．ホテルから車で３分ほどの距離だった．わさわさと人がいる．
レセプションでロッカーの鍵を借りて水着に着替え，外に出るとそこにはまさに「ブルーラグーン」があった．硫黄のにおいがきつく，お湯の色はブルー…いや多分透明．下は細かい砂利で，その色は溶岩だから黒い．本家の規模よりはおそらく小さいのだが，それでも日本にはあり得ないくらいのサイズの露天風呂である．サウナも併設だ．ところどころ「危険！100度くらいあるぞ！」というプレートもあったりして恐ろしい．沖合（というのかどうかよく分からないが）に行くと水深が120センチくらいになり，それに応じて湯温も低くなっていく．欧州人（ざっと話している風を聞いた感じ，アメリカ人はほとんどいなさそう）はそういうところの方が好みなのかもしれないが，われわれ日本人はやはりそれなりに熱い湯でないと風呂に入った気がしないので，水際あたりの浅いところで温まる．欧州の人々はここまでの規模ではなくともそもそも広い風呂に入る経験はあまりないだろうから，一様にみなぎらぎら目を輝かせてうれしそうだ．そんな中，浸かりながら延々と携帯電話でしゃべっているイタリア人（推定；イタリア語を話していた）が印象的だった．湯に浸かりながらとにかく電話をやめることがない．どっちかというと仕事の電話っぽい感じだったが，今じゃないとだめだったのか．カアラさんに「アイスランドの携帯電話事情を取材してきてね」と言われつつ，ここまでそもそも携帯電話で話している人すら見なかったのだが，ここでこんな人に会おうとは．でもアイスランド人じゃないけど（笑 とにかく記念に写真を撮ってみた．
じっくり温まって風呂から上がり，シャワーを浴びて露天風呂体験は終了．温泉巡りが大好きな日本人には，アイスランドは非常にお勧めの観光地だと言えるのではないだろうか．
ホテルに戻って夕食の作成．今日は，牛丼（具はレトルト），めかぶ（乾燥めかぶをもどして添付のタレをかける），みそ汁（インスタントものに，ゆでたサヤエンドウを突っ込む）の３品．この自炊作戦も去年の時と比べると随分豊かな食卓になってきた．またまたおいしくいただきました．明日のスケジュールを相談してから，今日も早めに就寝．
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